I’m sure I saw a meme out there depicting watch collectors going for gaudy and big watches when they first start out and ultimately reverting to more classical and vintage-type watches as they mature in age and life. I remember buying a 48mm Citizen navigator watch. Yes, 48mm. The problem? My wrist was in no way, shape, or form able to rock that big of a watch. This was during a time when I had no idea what the term lug-to-lug meant nor how important of a measurement it would be for me later. Lug width? Pfft…whatever. Height? I mean, how thick can 15mm really be anyway? Basically, like so many amateurs, all my eyes ever saw was the dial and whether I liked it or not. As a young male adult, what that really boiled down to was how busy the dial could get, because obviously, the busier the dial, the more sophisticated and cool it would look on my wrist. Fast forward a decade or two later, my perspective on watches has completely changed. I discovered that as I age, I prefer simplicity not just in watches but also in other things in life as well. Case in point, coffee. Whereas my younger self would prefer caramel frappuccinos and other types of flavored, sweet, and complicated drinks, I now prefer an Americano or a Red Eye if I really need the extra boost. I guess that meme really does hold true, and it doesn’t just stop at watches. 😉

Currently, I’m on the hunt for my next watch piece. Now that I finally know what type of watches fit my wrist the best as far as width, lug-to-lug, and height go, the list has been narrowed down quite a bit over the years. The watch is one I’m looking forward to being able to wear any day of the week, not just reserved for formal occasions. In a way, I guess it can also be labeled as a business dress to business casual dress watch. It’s also one I can see myself wearing around the house as well. My list below is by no means in any particular order. I have quite a few watches bookmarked, and going through them to find my next purchase is what inspired me to write this post as a way to organize my thoughts. Let’s begin!

I understand that many would consider a watch in the 34mm – 36mm range to be too feminine for guys. I disagree, and it’s not just because I have puny wrists. Men in the early era wore small watches. Even men in the military wore field watches in the 34mm – 36mm range. 38mm and above, I’d have to assume, would have been a monstrosity during that era. A dress watch, for both male and females, should always be smaller than what they’d normally wear as a daily beater. As a guy with smaller wrists, I have no choice but to always consider these types of watches. As I usually have to explain to friends and others who are not into this hobby, don’t look at just the sizing nor advertisement pictures alone to consider whether a watch is for a male or female.

If a smaller-dimension watch has the same dial and case shape as its bigger brethren but is just shrunken down in size, then I don’t consider that to be the female version. It’s usually only if the dial or case shape itself changes that I would consider it to be more feminine. For example, a female version would have diamonds along the hour markers, whereas the bigger version would not. Also, female watches made specifically for women usually have a softer and more curvy design language. Rather than hard and rectangular hour marker batons, a female version would have oval batons instead. Instead of a rectangular date window, it would be a circular one instead. A perfect example highlighting this is the Longines Master Moonphase collection. There is no obvious difference in appearance between the 34mm dial and the bigger 40mm and 42mm versions. Yet the 34mm has only females as the models on the website while the other two larger dials have male models only. However, if you take a look at this model in the same collection with diamonds as the hour markers also in 34mm, it’s a lot easier to discern that this is dedicated to women.

Nivada Grechen Antarctic

If you’re a watch company with a long history, one of the easiest ways to generate sales is to simply revive an earlier model from the 60s or 70s, retrofit it with a sapphire case and an upgrade in movement. The execs can then sit back and watch the money come pouring in. There is a large community of vintage watch collectors. The formula can seem so simple that I sometimes wonder if I’m missing out on something. But whatever the case may be, the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35mm is one I’m glad they pulled out from the archive. This watch is simply elegant and classy. Although the main selling point of the watch is how it was a watch that was tough enough to survive a cold trip to Antarctica in the 1950s, I was never really a fan of what they call art-deco style watches, but this model is an exception. I’ll always be a sucker for blue heat-treated hands; it gives the watch a nice pop of color. Another major selling point is the dauphine-shaped minute and hour hands. I found that these hands allow me to very easily tell the time with a quick glance, more so than with other types of hands. I have a 34mm Timex California with similar hands. I was afraid telling the time would be difficult, but I oddly discovered that I was more easily able to tell the time on that watch than on some slightly bigger watches I have in my collection. The Antarctic is definitely something I can see myself wearing even when lounging at home. I was leaning towards the eggshell beige version at first, but the white dial is looking irresistible as well.

Width: 35mm

Height: 10mm with crystal included

Lug-to-Lug: 42mm

Price: $900+

Alpina Tropic Proof

Similar to the Antarctic, the Tropic Proof from Alpina is a model that was pulled from their history archive of the 1960s. Although I’m not too familiar with Alpina as a brand, they do have a long history of watchmaking, so I wouldn’t consider them a microbrand. Regardless of all that, the Tropic Proof is simply fire! Most guys have no idea of the struggle us smaller-wristed folks have to go through when looking for a watch, and when one comes through that hits all the right dimensions and looks, it’s a moment of pure ultimate bliss. That’s how I felt when I first saw this watch. Everything about the Tropic Proof screams vintage, and I’m glad that they decided to keep the watch mostly the same as the original. The lugs coming out of the case just ooze vintage vibes to me. Along with that creamy white dial and dauphine-type hands, I bookmarked the watch into my collection in record time. Pairing the watch with a brown Alcantara strap is a near-perfect match. However, with a water resistance of only 30 meters and with the watch being called what it is, I can hardly feel bad for the jokes that will be heaped upon it. The one thing that put me off was the pricing. At $1890+, I think it’s a bit steep. If this was priced similarly to the Nivada Antarctic, I think I would have a much harder time deciding which would win out. But because the measurements of the Tropic Proof are more to my liking, it’s a premium I have to decide whether it’s worth paying for or not.

Width: 34mm

Height: 9.25mm

Lug-to-Lugh: 40mm

Price: $1890+

Vintage Omega Seamaster 600 cal. 601

If someone loves vintage type watches so much, why not just get one instead of waiting and hoping for a reissue? The vintage Omega Seamaster 600 is what I term the OG vintage watch. There are obviously many vintage watches from the 1950s to 1970s or so, as evident in the Nivada Antarctic and the Alpina Tropic Proof. But out of the masses comes one or two that just oozes more of that special vintage vibe than others, and the Omega Seamaster 600 of that era is king. There are a lot of them on sale on eBay, Chrono24, and from the online community as well. However, two things really hold me back from getting one: not being able to 100% verify its authenticity prior to purchase along with needing to take a gamble on its wear and tear even if the watch is completely legit and authentic. Yes, these watches are meant to take a beating, but that can only go so far, and although many sellers claim the watch has recently been “serviced,” we’re still talking about a watch that is almost five to six decades old. But man, some of the cleaner-looking vintage Seamasters are a sight to behold. I get weak in the knees. I’m compelled to just hit the buy button. Owning an Omega would also pair nicely with my Rolex OP. 😮‍💨

Width: 34mm

Height: 9mm

Lug-to-Lug: 40mm

Price: $600 – $2000+ (depends on condition)

Junghans Max Bill Handaufzug

I’ve had my sights on the 34mm hand-wound Max Bill from Junghans from the very beginning. It does get a bit repetitive to hear that well-made watches only qualify if they have the Swiss Made logo on them. The Germans are also engineering geniuses, and the Junghans Max Bill, which has a big following, is a watch I’d proudly wear and own if purchased. This 34mm version truly is vintage in size. I remember buying a used version on eBay some time ago but had to return it due to the seller not having mentioned in the listing that the case was not original. They fitted an Omega case on it, and it distorted the bottom portion of the watch. When I took it out of the box, I was truly surprised at how small it was. I also noticed that it was quite difficult to wind the watch with the small crown, even with my small fingers. I thought it was another defect of the watch, but it turns out others have complained about this issue as well. However, I’d still consider buying it again in a heartbeat. The minimalist design is clean and modern. It always reminds me of how a classy watch should look. They have an automatic movement version as well in 34mm, which is nice, but it includes a date window, which I don’t prefer.

Width: 34mm

Height: 9mm

Lug-to-Lug: 37mm 😱 😱

Price: $1300+

Grand Seiko SBGX347 (Gekka Moonlight)

I like Grand Seiko as much as the next person but at times, I just can’t stand their “story telling” of how a dial came to be. I saw thier Spring Drive in person on a friend’s Snowflake and was mightly impressed. How could one not be? But alas, there is no Spring Drive movement in their smaller watch lineup. The SBGX347 is as classic of a three-hander dial as it can get. It reminds me of the Seamaster 600 but with the Grand Seiko, one can likely be sure that their watch will outshine any other watch in the room. Literally. This is one aspect I’m afraid of when owning a Grand Seiko piece in that the mirror like finishing will be a bit too much for my liking. I have no problems with the quartz movement being that it’s a high accuracy one and at this price point, one I’m sure where the second marker will hit every marker on the dial with pure precision. I’m a bit puzzled at the 10.7mm thickness with this being a quartz movement but it doesn’t like it’s an issue from all the photos I’ve seen. The SBGX347 is however the first watch on the list that I somehow can’t see myself wearing around the house a lot. It’s also a watch I think the stock photos alone won’t do the watch justice and needs to be seen in person to be really appreciated as evident by the photo from this Reddit user. It looks so much better than what the stock pictures would have me believe.

Width: 34mm

Height: 10.7mm

Lug-to-Lug: 41.5mm

Price: $3300+

Longines Presence Heritage

Longines will always be a special brand for me. When I knew absolutely nothing about watches, it wasn’t a Rolex, Patek, Jaeger-LeCoultre, or Cartier that pulled me in. It was the Longines Master Moonphase Triple Calendar. I always swore to myself that I would try and own at least one Longines in my collection before it’s all said and done. This Longines Presence Heritage is rarely talked about, and I doubt many know of its existence. It’s a timepiece that looks as though it has been transported from your great-grandparents’ time via a time capsule. The dial reminds me of one of those really old clocks. The cursive Arabic numerals, along with the perfectly placed sub-seconds wheel that somehow doesn’t interfere with the 6, even on such a small dial, is the chef’s kiss. Oh, and did you notice how the minute hand reaches all the way out to the edge of the minute chapter ring? Many times I see this being present only on much more expensive watches, and it frustrates me to no end. I’m not too fond of the gold bezel, but those blued hands go so well with it. Also, I’m not a fan of those elongated lugs. They make it a bit more feminine for a male on a watch that is already tiny. Out of the entire list, this Longines is definitely a watch that I see wearing only when I’m out and about.

Width: 34mm

Height: 8.7mm

Lug-to-Lug: ?? (I’m thinking in the mid 40mm range due to the elongated lugs)

Price: $2700+

Stowa Marine Klassik

While most know Stowa as makers of legit flieger pilot watches, their Marine lineup is also worthy of consideration. Its simple dial, bold Arabic numerals, and central sub-seconds dial take after deck watches on ships. At first, I had mistaken the glossy white dial for enamel, but it’s not. The price would definitely be a lot higher if it really were. Those heated blue steel hands once again lend a pop of color to the watch, and at certain angles where the light hits it just right, it’s absolutely stunning from the pictures I’ve seen. I also love how they implemented the sub-seconds dial. Rather than cutting off the number 6 in half, they chose to forgo the number altogether. Although I love vintage watches, I’m usually not a huge fan of domed crystals; I prefer a flatter one instead to help keep the thickness to a minimum. This Stowa ticks that box. This watch I can see myself wearing as my daily alongside my Rolex. The only downside would be the lug-to-lug length. It’s a bit longer than what I would prefer. If they are able to make a 34mm or 35mm version with a lug-to-lug length in the low 40mm, it would likely be an instant buy for me.

Width: 36mm

Height: 8.5mm

Lug-to-Lug: 44.6mm

Price: $1130+

Longines Master Collection

I love Longines Master Collection. Longines doesn’t usually get the recognition it deserves from what I see in online communities, but they have been making watches for a very, very long time. I believe they hold the record for having the longest continuously used and unchanged trademark logo in the watch community. What caught my attention when I first saw their Triple Moonphase Calendar was obviously the interesting and complex dial, but also captivating was the textured dial. They call it barley corn texture, and it was mesmerizing. Heck, call me crazy, but I dig that textured dial more than some of the Grand Seiko, regardless of how it’s “supposed” to remind me of an ocean, sea, forest, sun, moon or whatever it is they fancy at the time. This paired with the once again heated blue steel hands and dark brown alligator leather strap, and it’s a total winner in my eyes. The dimensions all around are also to my liking. The only complaint would be the date window. I did have my eyes on the moonphase edition, but I figured that would be a bit too formal and dressy for every day wear.

Width: 34mm

Height: 9.20mm

Lug-to-Lug: 41.70mm

Price: $2250+

Although I have a bunch of other watches in my bookmark collection with similar dimensions as the ones listed above, the ones I have here more or less capture what I’m looking for. I am severely disappointed that Orient doesn’t offer their huge collection of watches, especially in the Bambino lineup, in the 34mm – 36mm range. If they did, I’d likely have one of each in my collection by now. After so many years, I’ve narrowed my watch hunting going forward to similar watches as above. In a way, it’s a blessing to have such small wrists. I no longer have the desire to purchase every single watch I come across. Getting a watch that correctly sits on my wrist is, above all, the most important factor above anything else, price notwithstanding. A lot of money has been spent getting to this stage of my watch collection journey, and I look forward to many more years to go. In a way, I see this as an opportunity to start my collection anew knowing what I know now. Gentleman, size does matter.